Tsamara Amany is an hour late for our coffee meeting. Even by Indonesian standards, where a half hour’s grace is baked into appointments, she’s verging on tardy.
But then I remember Amany is 21, recall what I might have been doing at 11 a.m. on a Saturday (being unconscious), and cut her some slack, settling into my blueberry muffin at a Starbucks in a leafy redoubt of South Jakarta.

UNTIL a year ago, Mama Yuli could count on a steady stream of reporters and television crews to make their way to her small orange house in Jakarta’s suburbs for a peek at what is thought to be Indonesia’s only shelter for transgender women. Yulianus Rettoblaut—Mama Yuli’s full name—had made a splash as the first openly transgender woman to obtain a master’s degree in Indonesia. She had also tried twice to become a member of the Human Rights Commission.