Dr Sari doing the rounds at Badung market in Denpasar.

Dr Luh Upadisari plucks what looks like a small football the colour of a tree frog from an embankment of fruit, holds it at nearly eye level before swinging around to me declaring, “that will be ready to eat by tomorrow”.

Almond croissants are my weakness. The glass counter of treats at Starbucks is a magnet for me. It’s Thursday morning and after a long battle with my better angels, I rule the croissants out. I settle down with a brewed coffee instead. My usual.

 Narun, an Angkor Wat tour guide, watches for his clients.

There are ghosts at Angkor Wat.

I learned this from Narun, a tour guide there. As a boy in the early 1980s he would sometimes sleep in one of the temple’s high pagodas where cross breezes kept the mosquitos at bay.